Village Excursions on the Mennonite Heritage Cruise
Draft 2008 bus and private trips now under revision

2008 IntegratedSchedule

Visiting the ancestral patch of land is the single most important activity for passengers on the cruise. This is essentially why you come together in Ukraine from as many as six provinces and ten states. It doesn't really matter if there is a Mennonite house still standing or not. Suddenly you are on hallowed ground. Planning for the village excursions starts early. Passengers fill out their requests on the booking form and this starts a process which eventually generates a bus schedule. Participation in this bus schedule is included in the cruise price. Free bus routes apply only to the Molochna, Khortitsa and Yazykovo colonies. A book of maps is important. See the Reading List .  There is also a comprehensive set of maps on the Internet

The cruise bus schedule changes from cruise to cruise, reflecting the requests of the passengers. Since there are usually many requests for Molochna villages, you may want to look up the Molochna map and use the back & forward buttons of your browser between the map and this page. .

Neuendorf, Khortitsa Settlement, in late September - photo: Walter Unger
The brick house with two upper windows is typical of late 19th century Khortitsa Mennonite design

The 2008 Cruise Bus Schedule is largely based on passenger requests

In all, there are six days of Mennonite bus and private excursions to former Mennonite sites on the 2008 cruise. On three of these days we will organize generic bus tours and on three days we invite passengers to create the bus schedules and make plans for private excursions. It is therefore important for passengers to research their ancestral villages as much as possible. Some of the clues may come from genealogical records.

Set days during which everyone sees the same things:

1. Friday October 3 - Crimea - Options
We will give passengers the option to take a generic bus trip to former Mennonite villages such as Spat, Karassan, Tschongrau, Annenfeld, etc or to visit sites of the Crimean War,  marking the 154th anniversary of this watershed in Russian and Russian Mennonite history. Sites include the famous Panaroma on Malakoff Hill, Lord Raglan's lookout on Sepun Heights ("Charge of the Light Brigade"), the Stone of Reconciliation and a visit to the port of Balaklava where Florence Nightingale changed the course of nursing. Much later Balaklava became the top secret Black Sea Soviet nuclear submarine base.

2. Thursday October 9 - Zaporizhia
At the end our four day visit to the heart of the former Mennonite Settlements all the passengers are on generic bus routes close in to Zaporozhye. Most of the morning is spent in the historic founding villages of Khortitsa/Rosenthal, now a suburb of Zaporozhye, with a special visit to School #81, the former famous Mädchenschule, the oak tree, etc. We have lunch back on the ship and then go to the south of Khortitsa Island for an open air Cossack Equestrian Show. The ship then sails for Dnepropetrovsk.

3. Friday October 10 - Dniptropetrovsk
After a short sail from Zaporizhia we spend the day  in Dnepropetrovsk . Known earlier as Ekaterinoslav, this was the first urban centre of importance to Mennonites in South Russia. Here our ancestors met with the Guardians Committee, planned the villages, supplied them with tree seedlings and livestock, became industrialists, started attending (and founding) high schools & Universities, became City Fathers and organized the huge South Russian WWI Medical Service. We see the buildings which once housed the anarchist, Nestor Makhno. Here too our relatives were interrogated and excecuted in the KGB dungeons. We provide a morning city walking and bus tour, including the still operating Fast flour mill and a a visit to the sombre Reparations Room in the local museum, in which a pyramid of photographs and candles commemorates the millions who perished in the Stalin terror.   The afternoon is free and there will be some private trips to nearby Andreasfeld, Wiesenfeld, etc.


Balaklava harbor
Historic Balaklava harbour, now a fashionable resort in Crimea

Passenger-scheduled bus excursion days: The other three days of village excursions from Zaporozhye  are determined by passenger interest. Draft 2008 bus routes will be accessed from  a link at the top of this page. We can guarantee that passengers will be able to get to any village in the former Khortitsa, Yazykovo and Molochna colonies at no extra charge. Visits to villages in other colonies are arranged in a passenger-pay method described below.

The bus routes do not ordinarily allow you to spend more than 20 to 30 minutes in any one village. If you have very specific villages in mind and would like to spend several hours in the village, we strongly recommend that you book a private vehicle and guide. We can easily arrange this for you if you give us enough time. Please don't wait to do this until you are on the cruise.  Vehicles and guides are limited.
 

Additional Possible Private Arrangements 

We can arrange for private transportation to nearby colonies and have also sent small groups quite far on overnight stays. We have access to a variety of local transportation means.From Kiev we have sent small groups to villages in the Volhynia region and beyond. From Odessa we have sent passengers in the direction of Bessarabia and we have sent people to various parts of Crimea. Fees for private trips are $40 to $45 USD per hour or more (fuel prices have soared), depending on size and kind of vehicle and whether an English-speaking guide is needed. Our passengers to date have uniformly praised the local arrangements because the Ukrainian people have been so helpful and warm.

The private trips generally take all day, often a very long day. We try to put together people who are interested to see villages in a specific outlying colony. This means they share both the time and the cost. Sometimes passengers, especially family groups, are keen to book a van or bus entirely for themselves and spend as much time as possible in one village.

With proper lead time & advance planning, we can get passengers to most of their individual village requests in such colonies as Fuerstenland, Sagradowka, Schlachtin-Baratov, Borozenko, Memrik, Ignatievo, etc.using a variety of vehicles from cars and vans to small buses.

Zaporozhye guide Olga Shmakina & bus driver studying the village list
for a long Molochna bus excursion

Friedensfeld    
Local Ukainians, usually the Babushksas, have long memories. Here a senior resident of Friedensfeld, Borosenko Colony tells Victor Penner,
assisting on a private trip, about his memories of Mennonites before 1943 ("they were my best friends and I miss them")

Resources on the Bus

We schedule one of our cruise resource leaders and a Ukrainian guide on each bus excursion to the Khortitsa, Yazykovo, Molochna and Crimea villages. The October 2008 cruise bus resource team is made up of Paul Toews, Rudy Friesen, Alan Peters, and John Martens and guest resource leader, George Dyck. The Ukrainian guides include Olga Shmakina and Lyudmilla Karyaka. All of these people have been to the villages many times and have amassed an enormous amount of information and lore about them. Frequently, passengers bring with them extensive knowledge about sites, like Olga Friesen of Steinbach, Manitoba (Sept '97), who grew up in Ukraine until her teens. Olga was descended from the Heese and Toews families in Dnepropetrovsk (Ekaterinoslav). With great authority and accuracy she could point out existing buildings, remember destroyed buildings and describe the people who lived and worked in them. This priceless information, along with many similar interactions with passengers, has been passed on to the guides. Olga has since passed away but her memories are a treasured part of the cruise lore.

The Zaporizhia Guiding Unit on the Ship

In 1996 we discovered an amazingly simple and wonderfully effective tactic. We invited the Zaporozhye Intourist Guiding Manager, Larissa Goryacheva and a number of her guides, notably Olga Shmakina and Ludmilla Karyaka, onto our ship as we sailed from Kiev. In late September 2008 they will join us again in Odessa, refining the visit schedules as we sail downriver. We also asked them to provide our guiding needs in Dnipropetrovsk. Larissa, who actually grew up in a former Mennonite house, learned about Mennonites from Gerhardt Lohrenz in the 1960s and 70s and has been helping Mennonite tourism ever since.

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